We are almost ready to start knitting our socks. We will be ending up with socks that look like either this (plain):
or like this (with a rib down the back seam)
We are going for simple and easy. To this end we are using a pattern that you can read 3 ways: the basic sock pattern here, which also comes in an algebraic version (which is what I use) and a pocket reference version which I live by.
The reason I use this pattern is that it uses your gauge swatch to work out how many stitches to cast on etc… no messy calculations or measuring calves, ankles, toes or insteps.
If you have your yarn and needles you can prepare for our start by doing a gauge swatch. HOWEVER you must do a gauge swatch in the round as a back and forth gauge can be different to how you knit in the round. To do this easily without actually knitting in the round watch this video and swatch about 25 stitches for about 15/ 20 rows. You want enough to get an inch of even knitting out of it- and yes the first and last stitches will be very loose. It is a swatch- it doesn’t matter.
Note: If your yarn can stand up on it’s own you are probably knitting too tightly and will want to go up a needle size. While sock gauge has to be fitted, it cannot be too loose or too tight. If you are not sure- that’s what I am here for, send me a pic on twitter and we can have a look at it together.
We will probably start on the main sock next weekend- so get your needles ready and lets swatch!
More help from KnittingHelp.com: Thankfully, there is a trick to working a gauge swatch for knitting in the round. You knit a flat stockinette sample using all the knit stitch by doing the following: *knit a row; slide the work to the other end of the circular needle or DPN; leaving a long strand of yarn in back. Repeat from *. If you leave the strand in back long enough, you can use it up by knitting with it for a row. This removes the strands from dangling behind the swatch, but is entirely optional. In any case, the end of the row will be loose and messy, so add about four stitches to your swatch to accomodate this.
My Swatch using 2.5mm needles, I have a small swatch on 2.75mm as well but it is easy to see when stretched a little bit that it is too loose, therefore 2.5mm is the correct size needle to use.
2.75mm swatch- too loose 
The Foodie Librarian 
I’m using Noro Silk Garden so I’m taking my gauge from the pair I knitted last year: 7 st to an inch on 3.0 mm needles.
Out of interest- are you using the noro sock yarn or the dk yarn?
Silk Garden Sock
OK, that wasn’t too bad – my first few carry-across-the-back yarns were a bit tight so ti rolled, but after 15 rows of that pink-purple I can see that 2.5mm needles (eek) are right, and I think I can figure out my magic x value. Exciting!
Can I unravel my swatch and knit sock with it, or do I need to keep it?
xxsarah
If you think you will need the yarn you can unravel it- but i don’t normally. I never need it as my feet are so small!! You can always unravel it at the end if you need it.
hi kate,
so, i’ve done my swatch, 8 spi. these needles are so little to work with! so, how do you adjust the size of this sock according to foot size? are they one size fits all?
It’s like a small, medium, large thing and depends on the size of the measurement around your ankle – with 8spi should be about an 8.5″ ankle (which is a medium).
great! medium will be perfect and makes things easy! Hopefully, I’ll get used to these small needles … I have small hands, so it shouldn’t be too hard, right! Thanks Kate.